Day 16 – around the inlets
Geri is an Essex girl who spent her working life with the Post Office and, when she retired 8 years ago, decided that Cumbria would be the place she’d most like to be. So she bought Pavilion House in Millom and has been running it as a B&B ever since. I’d guess it’s a Victorian building with decent sized rooms, a comfortable double bed and a good FCB in the morning. At £64.40 it was good value for money. I pitched up at about 6pm feeling pretty weary after my battle against the wind: the bike had to stay in the front garden but was secure enough. Geri said that food was available in town but probably only until 7pm so I quickly got washed and changed and walked the 100 yards down the road to Da Vinci, as one would expect, an Italian trat. In fact, they were open until 8 so there was no need for hurry, but I sat down and was quickly given a Peroni. Excellent sweet pepper soup to start with decent bread, penne all Carbonara and a very good cheesecake to finish: £29.99 for the 3 courses. I had another Peroni and wandered back via the Spar and bought a bottle of undistinguished white to write the blog.
After a good breakfast I was away at 0908. I wanted to follow the coast as much as possible so first had to head north to Broughton in Furness to cross the River Duddon. There were excellent cloud formations as I looked back at the estuary and more climbing and descending that I had bargained for, but the sunshine helped.
Past Broughton and Grizebeck I was heading south to Barrow In Furness, home to our nuclear submarine building industry. Just past Dalton in Furness I noticed this hill. From a distance it looked like a spoil heap but it is clearly a geographical feature
The BAE sheds used for warship building stand out as you come into town. Behind them is Walney Island
I stopped at Aldi for a drink and some Jaffa Cakes before moving on along the coast. Barrow has a fine Town Hall and clock
Once around the corner the road follows Morecambe Bay and there is a decent cycle path for the first five miles. The Bay is a treacherous place with quick-sands and fast flowing tides. There is a public right of way connecting Kents Bank on the Cumbrian side with Hest Bank on the Lancashire coast; but it should only be attempted with a qualified guide. In 2004 21 Chinese illegal immigrants were drowned when they were overcome by the tide whilst cockle picking.
On up the coast to Ulverston which is dominated by the lighthouse on Hoad Hill. Although it could have had a use for navigation and, indeed, a Grant of £100 from Trinity House towards building it stipulated that it should, it has never housed a light and stands as a memorial to Sir John Barrow a local worthy who rose to be second secretary to the Admiralty
I was forced onto the main road to Greenod where I was able to cross the River Leven by way of a footbridge, the tide filling the channel
On the other side I had to negotiate a very rough track for a couple of miles before hitting the blacktop and heading south past Holker Hall and Cark and Cartmel railway station. Everywhere I have been during the last couple of days I have seen signs for Cartmel Races at the end of the month. I’ve attended in the past, and the course is known for good viewing and a very long run to the finish. It’s a good day out for the family.
Through Grange-over-Sands with some swanky hotels and a bustling high street and then into the countryside at Meathop, generally flat country but every now and then there was a short sharp climb to keep me on my toes.
I see in hindsight that I could have easily avoided the A590 and some very fast moving traffic but instead braved the hard shoulder for three miles until I was able to turn off at Levens and move past Levens Hall, noted for its topiary garden, onto the A6 as it headed south to my final destination the Bulls Head Hotel at Milnthorpe.
It’s been a good day in the sunshine although still not warm but, once again I’ve avoided the rain.
