I tipped up at Les Deux Rives in Cierp-Gaud at about 4.30 as I had promised my host Ed earlier in the day. Ed and his sister Louise are Brits who bought Les Deux Rives as a shell about 6 years ago. It only took them 5 months to turn it into a B&B and since then they have entertained over 2000 guests. Louise has moved on to buy and convert a former nunnery further north leaving Ed to run Les Deux Rives on his own. As it was a Sunday I was worried about finding somewhere to eat but Ed provided an excellent three course meal, a simply delicious mozzarella and basil starter, chicken cacciatore and a very nice pear tart tatin to finish. A couple of beers and a glass of Merlot washed it all down. Also staying the night were a couple from Devon who were walking the GR10 – no, I didn’t know anything about it until last night – but, apparently, it is a recognised walking route the length of the Pyrenees that should take up to 55 days although it has been done in as little as 12. They have been on the go for about 4 weeks and have covered roughly half, staying in mountain refuges, hotels and B&Bs en route. They’ve run out of time and are shortly on their way home. Talking with them, it’s not something I could do, particularly descending serious inclines on foot – my knees wouldn’t take it. Anyway we had a pleasant chat whilst eating supper and then I went and got the computer and wrote the blog.
Ed provided an excellent breakfast – french in essence but with the addition of local cheese and ham and, unusually, a softish very well boiled egg, English breakfast tea and orange juice gave a good start to the day and I was on my way with full water bottles by 0908.
There was a 10 mile ride down the valley to Bageneres- de-Luchon to warm me up. Unfortunately instead of staying on the not very busy main road I diverted into a climb that needed engine assistance. I knew that it was going to be touch and go as to whether or not my battery would last the day so I could have done without that. Anyway I had to trust to luck.
As you can see the weather was changing: clouds in the sky and promise of thunder to come over the next couple of days. At Bagneres-de-Luchon my route turned west and the road rose enough to need the motor again. I was heading for the Col de Peyresourde, one of the iconic climbs in the Tour de France. It takes you in the direction of Peyragudes, one of the premier ski stations of the Pyreneees. Unfortunately the change in climate has led to a very short ski season in recent years: Ed informed me that it was now as short as four weeks, which hasn’t done much good for his winter bookings.
I came across this penny farthing sculpture that framed the climb to com.
The road was now steep enough to keep the motor going and I hoped that I would reach the top of the climb with, at least, 50% remaining to take me over the Col d’Aspin later in the day.
In the event I had about 60 % left by the top of the climb which gave me some reassurance.
It’s a TDF classic having been crossed almost 70 times. The road is wide and well paved and is not horrendously steep but I had to keep the motor running for comfort. The descent is easy, wide and without many sharp bends, joyful after the hard climb.
The descent takes you to Arreau, a thriving and pretty commune with plenty of bars, shops and restaurants and there were loads of tourists on the day I was there.
I stopped in Arreau to fill my water bottles; there is a rather ingenious system that I find hard to explain. There is a green hydrant with a handle on top that you wind and almost miraculously water appers from a spout. I imagine water is flowing through the system all the time and winding the handle diverts it to the spout. Whatever: I ended up with three bottles of cool clear water.
The next objective was the Col d’Aspin, again many times crossed in the TDF. I was ahead of time so, having experienced quite a lot of brake squeal I thought I would investigate before the descent of Aspin and, tomorrow, Tourmalet. I had some spare brake pads so pulled off the road and went to work. The pads weren’t too bad but I changed them anyway. It took me about half an hour and I set off in the knowledge that I should be OK for the descents to come.
The ascent of the Col d’Aspin is easy. I was expecting to have to use the motor early but , in the event, I reckon I could have made it without using the motor at all. However I got bored and, as I had plenty of spare power used it anyway. On the way up I came across this rminder of the TDF
and, a little further on one that I could hardly ignore
On my way up I was passed by a french grimpeur, I would guess in his 50’s or even 60 ‘s who kept ahead of me despite my motor: chapeau.
The sweep down to Peyrehitte, my destination for the night, was exhilarating. Safe in the knowledge of good brakes I pushed myself and arrived at my hotel before 4 pm. I’ve climbed more than I have ever done in a day before but I didn’t feel particularly tired. The legs are good and should get me over Tourmalet tomorrow before the forecast thunderstorms hit.
