Day 7 – Into England

I found the Royal McKenzie in Dunbar though Booking.com and made a reservation on the Booking website: however, I then received a message from the Manager saying that if I cancelled with Booking and reserved​​ direct, not only would I get a cheaper rate, but I would also get a free breakfast: something of a no-brainer. ​​ However, I am surprised that Booking have not caught up with this subterfuge and stopped advertising the RM. ​​ Anyway, I profited and had a very good FSB to my specifications.

On my way into town last night I noticed Belhaven Bikes, attached to the local filling station but it was closed. ​​ Presumably because they work weekends, they take the day off on Monday. ​​ It seemed worth the effort to call in this morning and see if they could fix me up with a replacement pannier rack, so I cycled down from the hotel at 0900 and, praise-be, Colin, after moving several bikes out of the way, found just what I needed hidden in a corner. I took the old rack off – four bolts out, fitted the replacement -four bolts in and I was on my way £30 poorer but a lot surer. ​​ Back to the hotel to collect the panniers and I was away from Dunbar ay 0929.​​ 

Bike paths all the way, passing the Tarmac cement works and then onto one beside the A1 for a couple of miles, turning across both carriageways as the bike path switched sides. ​​ Fortunately not busy and easy to achieve. Three miles later I went under the A1 and headed down a steep hill to Peas Bay, an ugly settlement of static homes next to a beautiful bay. ​​ What goes down must go up and I found myself climbing with the motor in its third setting which drains the battery pretty quickly. However once up on top of the hill the road roller-coastered for several miles averaging out the battery use.

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I’m not sure what hills I was riding across. ​​ The Cheviots are a bit further inland, but it was nice to be on top of them on a bright sunny day with not too much wind.​​ 

20 miles in it was back down to sea level at Eyemouth, both a working harbour and a seaside resort

Another steepish climb and then a fast descent to Berwick-upon-Tweed the northernmost town in England, though it has changed its nationality on several occasions. ​​ However since the Act of Union of 1707 Berwick has been subject to the laws of England and Wales. ​​ I crossed the River Tweed by the Old Bridge

And turned back towards the sea at Spittal into a stiffening breeze which stayed in my face for the rest of the day

Once again life became interesting as the​​ path, following NCR1 deteriorated into a narrow sandy track and slowed progress considerably. The views for about 6 miles were spectacular

Suddenly I was in the middle of Goswick golf links on a tarmac road. ​​ Just as quickly the road became a hard stone surface and then a sandy track through sand dunes.​​ 

Finally, I found a lovely fine gravel track and was beginning to think my problems had passed when the back tyre went down again. I unloaded everything and was getting ready to put in a new tube when Mike, on a mountain bike stopped to ask me if he could help. ​​ We had a bit of a chat: he lives in Berwick and was on his way down to café for tea and cake before heading back home. ​​ He wished me luck with my adventure and left me to sort out the puncture. ​​ About 200 yards further on I met the road leading to the Lindisfarne causeway and cycled on to the warning signs.

​​ I could have gone on and got back in plenty of time to miss the incoming tide but I was starting to feel pretty tired and just wanted to get on to my destination which was still 16 miles away.

I thought, erroneously, that most of the climbing was over but, to keep away from the A1, soon found myself on back roads with some serious slopes. 53 miles into the journey I went under the A1 for the last time and meandered up and down, past coastal lagoons

and on to Bamburgh with the majestic castle rearing up from the green below

I didn’t have the time or inclination to explore but the castle, owned by the Armstrong family since 1894, is open to the public for a fee.

Now on the last leg,​​ me on my last legs​​ and the battery down to 14%, I drove my tired body along the main road to Seahouses where I am staying tonight on a room only deal. ​​ There are lots of restaurants and I’ll probably buy some rolls and salami for breakfast in the morning. ​​ I’ve only travelled a little over 60 miles, but it seemed a lot further. Tomorrow will be further to travel​​ but with less ups and downs