Day 11 – The Ayrshire coast
St Ebba is a nice gentile B&B set in a row of similar establishments on the sea front of Rothesay and run by Kristine who has been in the business for 16 years so knows what it takes to make the punters happy. She showed me where to put my bike, just about under cover, but with little or no security. My room was in the attic which was quite a struggle as the second staircase was steep and narrow. The room itself was fine, spacious enough for me to spread everything out but without any drying facilities, so I didn’t wash anything but hung clothes up near the window to roughly dry. My shoes and overshoes dried on the window sill.
I composed the blog with a bottle of wine and slept well in a comfortable bed. Breakfast was ordered the night before and I ate good porridge and an FSB. The haggis had run out so I got an extra sausage. My breakfast companions were a man from Hull who specialises in taking public transport around Britain and doing sights, and a couple who are cycling somewhat lesser distances than me but taking their time and days off, today being one of those.
If I had hurried I might just have made the 0905 Calmac ferry to Wemyss Bay but elected to take a bit more time and leave on the 1000. I’d booked my ticket the night before, £4.35 for me and the bike.
It was spitting with rain when the boat left on time but there are plenty of seats, albeit up two flights of steep ladders, and I settled down next to and started talking with John who lives in Rothesay whilst his female partner lives in Largs, which is on my route. John had his partner’s dog with him and was on his way to Glasgow to arrange a conference. He talked generally about the area, including his allotment in Fairlie (even further down the coast) and the large pods of dolphins that now reside in the Firth of Clyde and, as a result, a pod of Orcas that have returned after many years. It was a pleasant way to pass the 25 minute trip and, as we parted he suggested I might like to look in on the railway station at Wemyss Bay – impressive architecture
It was, inevitably, raining as I made my way down the Ayrshire coast, the first 15 miles on main roads but not busy. At Largs there was a cycle path along the prom and then back onto roads at Fairlie. My Grandmother was the daughter of James Tennant, an industrialist whose uncle had invented a special technique for bleaching cloth and had made his fortune by patenting the process. James ran the business and lived at Fairlieburne House, since demolished and replaced with several des res’s. As I was passing, I took a picture
It was mainly cycle- paths until I reached Ayr, some better than others with a lot of tree roots showing through the tarmac. I took shelter at a bus-stop for about 15 minutes whilst a particularly heavy shower passed by, but I was still wet through. Onwards through Seamills, Saltcoats and Ardrossan with the wind, whipping up the waves, and becoming a distinct problem to cycle against
Eventually I headed inland to get away from the worst of the wind, wiggling my way through Irvine and along the edge of the golf course at Troon that has hosted the Open Championship many times, last in 2024. Past Prestwick airport (Glasgow for Ryanair) and through the middle of Ayr itself. The weather at this point was so revolting that I kept going rather than taking in some of the sights of the town including the horse race course and the birthplace of Robert Burns.
I’d been off course for over an hour when I got the familiar ding dong to tell me I was back on track. The weather improved dramatically and the sun come out as I headed out into open country with some steepish hills to climb, The first 55 miles were pan flat and I’d only used the motor to battle the headwind but now I switched it on and went as fast as I could manage, knowing that I wouldn’t arrive until after 6pm and uncertain about eating arrangements. Five miles from my destination in Girvan I passed Turnberry Golf Course
Typically, under-stated!
As a special end to a day made difficult by the weather, I was treated to Ailsa Craig rising magically from the Firth of Clyde
My hotel is a doss house, a tiny room and in need of a lot of TLC. Breakfast is continental left in the room and instructions to leave the key in the door when I go. The bike is in a covered area along with the rubbish bins and a broken bed. No food at the hotel despite it being advertised so I’ll go round the corner for Chinese.
Thank goodness tomorrow is a short journey, I need the rest.
