Day 1 – Tongue
After my most enjoyable meal last night I cycled back the 2 miles to Pentland Lodge without using the battery so that I had a full charge before setting off this morning. There was a bit of a climb out of Scrabster but nothing I couldn’t cope with without the weight of the panniers. Lidl was conveniently next door to my lodgings, so half a bottle of South African red helped me compose the blog. I suspect that for the next few days shops will be few and far between so I’ll have to make do with what’s available at my hotel/hostel.
Setting off with 2 loaded panniers felt a bit precarious but I soon got used to it and made good progress west. There’s a 3 mile long hill out of Thurso, not so steep as to need the motor but hard work with the lightish wind in my face, but, to make up for it, there’s a similar downhill to the Forss river, one of the north coast salmon rivers that discharge into the North Atlantic. The weather forecast was for light rain at any time, so I had a showerproof jacket on and had thought to put on neoprene overshoes as my cycling shoes are my only outdoor footwear and I try to keep them dry: I carry a pair of battered deck shoes that allow me to shuffle around indoors.
A couple of miles later I spotted the familiar dome of the now decommissioned Dounreay atomic power station.
Work on a fast reactor started at Dounreay in 1955 and criticality was first achieved in 1959. It exported power to the Grid from 1962 to 1977 when it was decommissioned. A prototype fast reactor produced power from 1974-1994 but was dogged by problems and it was not until midway through its life that it achieved its designed output. All output ceased in 1994 and work to clean up the site will be ongoing for many years.
The road became a roller coaster up and down until it dropped down to the Halladale river, virtually at sea level as it makes its way slowly to the North Atlantic. Up again past Melvich to the top of the moor where I came across the Marie Curie cancer garden of hope: rather a curious thing to find in the middle of nowhere. The view across the moor to the distant sea was still 
good, though it was starting to show signs of rain.
I knew from my previous journey along this road that Bettyhill was going to be the hardest climb although it is easier in this direction
Sweeping down past the Bettyhill Hotel, there was still a view over the river Naver to the Torrisdale bay beyond.
But at the bottom of the hill traffic came to a halt for roadworks to the bridge across the river and we were held for a good five minutes before we were clear to go.
I now had an option of cutting across the Borgie peninsula or following the coast which is what I did. In 2012 on the penultimate day of my first Lands End to John O’Groats I stayed in the Borgie Lodge Hotel and had an unforgettable night with the locals. This time I didn’t stop but made my way
on narrow roads to Skerray Harbour in the deepening gloom although it was still not yet 2pm
I passed a pair of old thatched cottages, up for sale but not for me.
The mizzle got worse and my glasses were covered as I climbed once again onto moorland and past lochans
Now close to my destination I rejoined the A836 which was now a narrow road with passing places and I had to wait and be waited upon as traffic came from the other direction.
During the day I saw plenty of cyclists going east but only passed one pair going in my direction.
It was about 1445 when I pulled into the carpark of the Ben Loyal Hotel where I am staying tonight. I knew that reception didn’t open until 1500 but the manager spotted me waiting and I was able to book in before the appointed hour. My bike is in a store room and I shall eat and drink in the hotel.
As you can see from the profile it’s been a bit of a roller coaster and I suspect there will be more to come over the next two or three days
